Exploring Changes in the Free Edge’s Appearance Post Gel Soak-Offs

The change in the appearance of your client’s free edges from white to more clear after gel soak-offs can be due to several non-concerning factors, including:

• Hydration Levels: Nails can absorb water during the soaking process, which may temporarily change their appearance. Once fully dry, they should return to their usual color.
• Natural Variations: Nail color and transparency can vary naturally over time and due to external factors like temperature and humidity.
• Product Residue: There may be some remaining residue from the gel or soak-off solution affecting the nail’s appearance.

However, to ensure there is no underlying issue, consider the following:

• Check for Damage: Ensure there are no signs of damage, such as thinning or brittleness, which could indicate over-filing or overuse of chemicals.
• Monitor Consistency: Keep an eye on the nails over a few appointments. If the condition persists or worsens, it might be worth investigating further.
• Consult a Professional: If in doubt, suggest your client consults a dermatologist or a professional nail technician for a thorough examination.

Overall, while the change in appearance is not necessarily a cause for concern, monitoring and ensuring the nails remain healthy is always a good practice.

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Nail professionals are taught to apply builder gel in thicker layers compared to gel polish, which is applied thinly.
Is this disparity in application thickness due solely to the pigments added to gel polish? If so, why aren’t more photoinitiators added to ensure a complete cure?

Understanding Application Thickness: Builder Gel vs. Gel Polish

The difference in application thickness between builder gel and gel polish is not solely due to the pigments added to gel polish. While pigments do contribute to the viscosity and opacity of gel polish, the main reason for the difference in application thickness lies in the formulation and intended use of each product.

Builder gel is designed to create structure and strength on the nail, making it suitable for building extensions, adding thickness, or repairing damaged nails. Therefore, it is typically applied in thicker layers to achieve the desired level of strength and durability. Thicker application allows for better control and manipulation of the gel to sculpt and shape the nail.

On the other hand, gel polish is formulated for aesthetic purposes, providing color, shine, and durability to natural or artificial nails. It is intended to be applied thinly, similar to traditional nail polish, to ensure smooth and even coverage without excess bulk. Thinner application also facilitates faster curing and reduces the risk of wrinkling or uneven drying.

While adding more photoinitiators to gel polish may help ensure a complete cure, there are limitations to how much can be added without affecting the product’s performance or consistency. Additionally, increasing the amount of photoinitiators may not necessarily address the issue of curing thickness, as thicker layers still require more time and energy to penetrate and cure completely.

Ultimately, the recommended application thickness for builder gel and gel polish is based on their respective formulations, intended uses, and desired outcomes. Nail professionals are trained to apply each product according to manufacturer guidelines and best practices to achieve optimal results.

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This is not correct, and it makes no scientific sense.

All UV gels cure in the same fashion, regardless of the UV source.  LEDs and fluorescent tubes are two different types of UV sources. UV gels contain various curing agents that depend on the intensity of the wavelengths and the length of exposure. LED-style nail lamps emit UV with greater intensity than traditional fluorescent-style UV nail lamps. Even so, no type of UV gel cures from the bottom up.

Assessing the Curing Properties of LED Gel versus UV Gel

The question you posed pertains to the curing properties of LED gel versus UV gel, particularly in terms of their resistance to breakdown. The educator’s claim suggests that LED gel cures from the bottom up, rendering it more durable, while UV gel allegedly cures in the opposite manner, making it less resilient. This assertion prompts an inquiry into the validity of such statements within the realm of nail care and curing processes.

In response, it becomes imperative to delve into the scientific underpinnings of gel curing. Regardless of the source of UV light used—whether LED or fluorescent tubes—the fundamental mechanisms governing the curing process remain consistent. UV gels are formulated with specific curing agents that react to UV light exposure, initiating the crosslinking of polymers within the gel to create a hardened layer. The effectiveness of this curing process is contingent upon factors such as wavelength intensity and duration of exposure to UV light.

LED nail lamps have gained popularity in recent years due to their efficiency in emitting UV light at higher intensities compared to traditional fluorescent UV lamps. This heightened intensity expedites the curing process, reducing the overall time required for gel application. However, it is crucial to underscore that the curing process itself remains uniform across different UV sources.

Challenging the Notion of Bottom-Up Curing in LED Gel

Contrary to the educator’s assertion, there is no scientific basis to support the claim that LED gel cures from the bottom up, conferring greater resistance to breakdown. The notion of bottom-up curing implies a directional curing process that begins at the base of the gel and progresses upwards. However, the crosslinking reaction initiated by UV light occurs uniformly throughout the gel layer, rather than proceeding directionally from top to bottom or vice versa. Therefore, the concept of bottom-up curing lacks substantiation within the scientific framework governing gel curing processes.

Moreover, attributing differences in gel durability solely to the directionality of curing overlooks the myriad factors that influence the overall performance of gel manicures. The quality of the gel formulation, the skill of the technician applying the gel, and proper nail preparation all play pivotal roles in determining the longevity and resilience of the manicure. Additionally, factors such as exposure to harsh chemicals, frequent hand washing, and mechanical stress can contribute to the breakdown of gel polish over time, irrespective of the curing method employed.

Validity of Claims Regarding LED Gel Curing and Durability

While LED nail lamps may offer advantages in terms of efficiency and speed of curing, the assertion that LED gel cures from the bottom up and is inherently more resistant to breakdown compared to UV gel lacks scientific validity. Gel curing occurs through a uniform crosslinking process initiated by UV light exposure, with no inherent directional bias. Therefore, it is essential to critically evaluate such claims within the context of scientific evidence and practical considerations within the nail care industry.

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UV gels should only be cured using the UV gel lamp or lamps specified by the UV gel manufacturer.

LED style nail lamps emit much more UV than fluorescent-style UV nail lamps and these levels may be too much for traditional nail coating products unless they are specifically designed for LED lamps.

If a UV nail lamp was not specifically designed for the UV gel being used, over curing is a very real issue that can lead to injury and harm, so I would warn against doing this.

Many things can go wrong when nail professionals don’t use a nail lamp that properly cures their UV curing products. That’s why I recommend only using the nail lamp that is specified by the manufacturer of the UV product.

The Key to Proper UV Gel Curing: Compatibility with Specific Lamps

It doesn’t matter if a company makes the nail lamp, especially for the UV gel, what matters is if the UV gel is formulated specifically to work with one (or two) lamps. No UV gel can be formulated to properly cure with any nail lamp, no matter what type of nail lamp it is. Some mistakenly think that so-called “dual lamps” will properly cure all types of UV gels, but that is a false assumption. As I’ve pointed out in other articles, both the wavelength range AND the intensity of the wavelengths are very important to ensure proper cure and no one lamp can properly cure all UV gels.

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This is a problem that occurs far too often and should be avoided.

Managing Exothermic Reactions in Artificial Nail Coatings

When any chemical reaction releases heat, it is called an “exothermic reaction” or “exotherm”.  An exotherm can be very significant and even damaging. I hear about this problem all the time.

It was always my chief concern when developing any artificial nail coating because they can happen with any artificial nail products- any of them and I know of no exceptions. It’s the nature of the chemistry involved, and it is unavoidable. Even so, exotherms can be minimized and controlled.  

Understanding and Addressing Exothermic Reactions in Nail Coatings

One way to control exotherms is to ensure the product is carefully and responsibly formulated by someone skilled in the art of their development. I went out of my way to minimize exotherms whenever I developed any nail coating. This was one of my top goals for product development.

Exotherm is a real and significant problem. I even spent months building a special scientific instrument that would very precisely measure the exotherms created on the nail plate during curing.

Exotherms can be a red flag when a product overheats to the point of causing burns to the nail bed.  They can lead to onycholysis, which is a medical term for the separation of the nail plate from the nail bed. 

Excessive heat can be a sign that something is seriously wrong and should be immediately corrected before the client develops a permanent injury, which can lead to infections and/or loss of the nail plate.  Exotherms are made to be much more noticeable and painful when a nail tech friction burns the nail bed from overly aggressive filing, which magnifies the problem by making the nail bed more sensitive to heat.  What other factors can cause exotherms?

Causes of Exothermic Reactions in Nail Coatings

As mentioned before, using the incorrect nail lamp to cure a UV gel is a leading cause.  LED nail lamps emit more UV than traditional nail lamps, so when used with a nail coating not designed for use with LED nail lamps, this can lead to significant overheating and nail bed burns that can lead to onycholysis.  The thicker the applied coating, the more heat it releases during cure.  

Another common reason has nothing to do with the formula, but everything to do with over filing. When the nail plate is filed too aggressively or with a heavy hand, can friction burn the nail bed and make it more sensitive. When the nail bed is injured by over filing, it becomes much more sensitive to heat, making it more noticeable.

The points raised by this question are likely reasons for excessive heating, so these are the first places you should look when trying to prevent this potentially harmful condition.

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For detailed information on the safe levels of ingredients in gel and builder gel products, you would want to refer to a few primary sources:

Safety Data Sheets (SDS): Used to be MSDS but changed to a global recognition some years ago) Manufacturers of gel and builder gel products are required to provide SDS for their products. These sheets detail the ingredients, potential hazards, handling, and safety precautions. If you have a specific brand in mind, you can usually access their SDS directly from their website or by contacting their customer service.

The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA): They have a comprehensive dictionary that includes ingredient names and safety information. This can be an excellent resource for understanding the components in cosmetic products, including nail gels.

Regulatory Authorities: Depending on your region, national or regional regulatory bodies like the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), European Medicines Agency (EMA), or Health Canada provide guidelines and standards on cosmetic and nail product ingredients. These organizations often have databases or publications detailing safety levels and permissible limits of various ingredients. In the UK the regulatory organisation is the OPSS (Office of Product Safety and Standards) 

Professional Nail Associations & Publications: Industry-specific associations, magazines, and websites often have articles, studies, or discussions about the safety of nail products and their ingredients.

Educational Institutes: Since you mentioned theory education, consider reaching out to institutions offering courses in cosmetic chemistry. They may have resources or can point you towards detailed, scientific insights into nail product ingredients.

Remember, it’s always a good practice to stay updated, as research is continually evolving, and new findings emerge about ingredient safety for gel and builder gel.

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Question: I’ve noticed that some people are using opaque, full-coverage nails with gel products like base gel or builder in a bottle. I’ve informed them that the opaqueness of these nails might prevent proper curing of the gel, leaving uncured gel underneath. I believe this is correct, but I’m struggling to find concrete information to support this claim, aside from the general knowledge that light must penetrate the gel layers for a complete cure. Can you help clarify this for me?

Expert: Of course! You’ve raised an important concern about the use of opaque, full-coverage nails in conjunction with gel products. Your understanding is indeed correct, and I can provide you with some insights into this matter.

Challenges of Using Opaque Nails with Gel Products

When it comes to gel products, particularly those that require UV or LED curing, the key factor is proper exposure to the curing light. Opaque or fully covered nails can pose a challenge because they act as a barrier, blocking the UV or LED light from reaching the gel product underneath. As a result, the gel may not cure properly, leading to several potential issues.

It is also important to remember that a gel coating is solid at only 50% of its required cure time, so do not fall into a trap of thinking because it appears to be solid, and there is no seeping residue, that a coating is fully cured. Add this to the risk of the opaque tip inhibiting the penetration of the wavelength of light, a nail professional will never be certain that the gel applied beneath is of the correct application thickness and achieved its proper cure.

One of the primary concerns is that the gel might not adhere securely to the natural nail when curing is incomplete. This can result in premature lifting, where the gel layer detaches from the nail, leaving room for moisture, bacteria, or fungi to enter. Additionally, incomplete curing can result in weakened nails and may even cause discoloration or yellowing.

Using Clear Tips and a Double-Cure Approach with Gel Products

To address this challenge, it’s recommended to use clear tips when working with gel products. Clear tips allow the UV or LED light to penetrate and ensure proper curing of the gel. Moreover, you can consider a double-cure approach, which involves curing the gel both before and after attaching the tip. This double-cure method helps confirm that the tip hasn’t obstructed the curing process and ensures a secure and long-lasting bond.

In summary, your concerns are valid, and it’s essential to choose clear tips and adopt a double-cure technique when using gel products to achieve successful and durable nail enhancements.

FAQ’s

Question: Why is it important to avoid using opaque nails with gel products?
Answer: Proper curing of gel products is crucial for strong and durable nail enhancements. Opaque nails can block UV or LED light, hindering the curing process and potentially leading to issues like premature lifting and weakened nails.

Question: What’s the recommended solution for using gel products with opaque nails?
Answer: To overcome this challenge, it’s advised to use clear tips when working with gel products. Clear tips allow the curing energy to penetrate, ensuring proper curing. Additionally, employing a double-cure approach, curing both before and after attaching the tip, can ensure that the curing process is not obstructed.

Question: Can incomplete curing of gel products lead to nail problems?
Answer: Yes, incomplete curing can result in various nail problems, including weakened nails, premature lifting of the gel, and potential discoloration or yellowing. Ensuring proper curing is essential for achieving flawless and long-lasting nail enhancements.

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Q: How flammable is gel polish and is this why some are classified as “hazardous substance” for shipping?  I must travel with my nail products and some airlines are happy for you to check these products in luggage and others aren’t.

It is true that airlines are becoming increasingly concerned with what they fly as cargo.

The Key Role of Safety Data Sheets for Nail Technicians

One way that nail technicians can get information about flammability and other safety information is from the products Safety Data Sheet or (SDS). The SDS will list what’s called the “flashpoint” for all substances that can catch fire and burn. The flash point is exactly what it sounds like, it is the temperature at which the product will catch fire. In the US, if the flash point is below 100F (38C) the product is considered flammable. Those above this temperature are considered combustible, which means the substance is less likely to be a fire hazard. The lower the flash point is, the more flammable the substance.

A Comparative Analysis for Safety Awareness”

Acetone for instance, has a flashpoint of about 5F (-15C), which is highly flammable. This means that even if the acetone were cooled to -15C, it can still catch fire and burn. 

Paper is combustible, not flammable. Most don’t realize that paper must be heated to more than 450F (230C) before it will burn.  Combustible means the substance will burn, but it’s not likely to catch fire on its own without being heated. So clearly, transporting paper is a lot safer than acetone, based on flammability

Decoding UV Gels, Removers, and Solvents for Nail Technicians

Most, but not all UV gels, have flash points that are above 100F (38C) and are therefore considered to be combustible and not flammable. Removers and solvents are usually below 100F and are therefore highly flammable. Don’t be confused by the term “inflammable”. Some mistakenly think this means the substance can’t burn when in fact inflammable means the same thing as flammable.

Packing SDS Sheets for Nail Products During Air Travel

Anything considered inflammable also has a flash point below 100F (38C). Substances that don’t burn are called “Non-flammable”. Anyone who does a lot of flying may wish to consider packing the SDS sheets along with your nail products. That may help you get it checked in more easily. 

In Conclusion

Understanding the flammability of nail products, such as gel polish, is crucial, especially when it comes to traveling with these items. Airlines have become more cautious about transporting hazardous substances, prompting the need for awareness among nail technicians.

Safety Data Sheets (SDS) provide valuable information, including the flashpoint of substances, which indicates their propensity to catch fire.

In the United States, products with flashpoints below 100F (38C) are classified as flammable, while those above this temperature are considered combustible and less likely to pose a fire hazard.

Most UV gels have flash points above 100F, categorizing them as combustible rather than flammable. However, removers and solvents typically have flashpoints below 100F, making them highly flammable. It’s essential not to confuse the term “inflammable” with non-flammable substances, as both indicate the potential for burning.

For frequent flyers, it is advisable to carry SDS sheets along with nail products, as this might facilitate their safe check-in during air travel. By understanding and adhering to proper safety precautions, nail technicians can ensure the responsible handling and transportation of flammable substances in their profession.

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Fungal Risks in Base Gel and Normal Gel

First we need to understand the difference between a rubber base and a regular base coat, so we can assess if there is any extra chances of it allowing pathogens near the nail plate.

A rubber base coat (despite its lack of actual rubber) is primarily a stronger and more viscous base coat that provides additional strength to flexible and weak nails. Due to its increased flexibility compared to other strong bases and builder gels, it can better adapt to the nail, reducing the risk of snapping when subjected to pressure.

It’s simply a prescriptive base coat – another tool at the nail professional’s disposal, and because it doesn’t differ that much from other forms of coatings, rubber base gel is generally not more prone to fungus and infections compared to regular gel.

Both types of gel nail products provide a protective layer over the natural nail, which can help prevent moisture and bacteria from entering the nail bed and causing infections. However, it’s important to note that the risk of fungus or infections primarily depends on how the nails are prepared, applied, and maintained, rather than the specific type of gel used.

Here are a Few Key Points to Consider:

1. Proper Nail Preparation: Regardless of the gel type used, proper nail preparation is essential. Thoroughly cleanse and sanitise the nails before application to remove any bacteria or fungi present on the nail surface. Onycholysis can occur if the natural nail is buffed too much so that it is thin. It can also occur from Covid or other systemic illnesses.

2. Hygienic Practices: Follow strict hygiene protocols during the application process. Use sanitised/disinfected tools, disposable applicators, and avoid cross-contamination between clients. This helps minimize the risk of introducing harmful microorganisms.

3. Application Technique: Apply gel products according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure that the gel is applied evenly and properly cured using a suitable UV or LED lamp. Incomplete curing can create an environment conducive to bacterial or fungal growth. There should be no heat experienced while under the lamp. This could indicate the product is applied too thickly or the lamp does not match the product brand.

4. Maintenance and Aftercare: Educate clients on proper maintenance and aftercare practices. Encourage them to avoid prolonged exposure to water, use gloves when working with harsh chemicals or cleaning agents, and regularly moisturize the cuticles and nails. These measures can help maintain the integrity of the gel coating and reduce the risk of infections. The use of oil several times daily is strongly recommended.

5. Client Communication: Establish open communication with clients to address any concerns they may have regarding nail health or possible infections. Encourage them to seek professional advice if they notice any signs of infection, such as redness, swelling, pain, or unusual nail changes.

6. During an Infill: While performing an infill, it is crucial to meticulously eliminate any areas of lifting, as even the smallest ones can create a favorable warm and damp environment for bacteria and fungi to thrive

Maintaining Nail Health

By following these guidelines and practicing good hygiene, both rubber base gel and regular gel can provide a protective and durable coating for the nails, minimizing the risk of fungal or bacterial infections. Remember, maintaining overall nail health and practicing proper hygiene are key factors in preventing any potential nail problems.

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