If there are no sebaceous glands in the nail bed, where does the oil that lubricates the nail plate come from?

Answer:

There are no sebaceous glands in the nail bed. The nail bed comprises epidermal and dermal layers but lacks sebaceous glands.

The oil that lubricates the nail plate comes primarily from the sebaceous glands in the surrounding skin, particularly in the proximal nail fold and lateral nail folds. Additionally, the eccrine sweat glands in the skin contribute moisture, which helps maintain nail flexibility.

Another key source of lubrication is sebum from the fingertips, which naturally transfers to the nail surface through contact with the surrounding skin. This helps keep the nail plate from becoming overly dry and brittle.

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Addressing a Client’s Apprehensions about Buffing Nail Ridges

We have a difficult salon client that has ridges in her nail plates. She doesn’t allow me or any of the other nail techs to buff them because she says that the buffing will cause them to crack and bleed.  I explained to her that light buffing will not make them bleed. What is a good way to explain to her that buffing is ok?

Navigating the Misconception of ‘Ridges

I agree with your client. It is common for nail technicians to buff the nail plate smooth to remove so-called “ridges”, but surprisingly, there are no ridges on the nail plate to be removed. The nail plate can’t suddenly start growing ridges. That’s not possible due to the way the nail matrix produces nail cells. Instead, the nail plate develops shallow grooves where the ageing or damaged nail matrix isn’t working as efficiently and is now making fewer new nail cells in certain areas.

Preserving Nail Plate Thickness

It is normal to see shallow grooves on nail plates of people older than thirty and is considered a normal sign of healthy ageing. I don’t recommend filing to remove these high points. Why? That just reduces the thickness of the entire nail plate and the nail plate can be sustainably weakened. Buffing away these so-called “ridges” will just thin the nail plate down to be as thick as the bottom of the deepest groove on the plate. The file just strips away the top layer. Yikes! That’s a lot of nail plate being removed.  It is far better to keep the client’s nail plates thick! Nail coatings, including nail polish, don’t adhere well to overly thin nail plates.

Maintaining Nail Coating Adhesion

The reduction in plate thickness often leads to poor adhesion of any applied nail coating. Excessive plate thinning can also cause the nail’s surface to peel excessively and/or crack at the free edge. When the nail plate develops these grooves, rather than filing the surface smooth, it is far better to use an opaque base coat to fill and cover the grooves. This will maintain the thickness and integrity of the nail plate.

The Art of Camouflage: Strengthening and Concealing Nail Plate Grooves

Overlaying the nail plate with a thin layer of any type of artificial nail coating can also camouflage the groove and reinforce/strengthen the nail plate, while improving its appearance without over thinning. In the long run, this is a far superior method for improving the appearance of the client’s nail plates. There is no need to make the nail plate thinner, when it’s relatively easy and better to cover and hide normal grooves that run the length of the plate.

Embracing Healthier Alternatives for a Flawless Look

In conclusion, it is important to address the concerns of the salon client regarding the buffing of nail ridges. While it is a common practice to smooth the nail plate in an attempt to remove these ridges, it is crucial to understand that the ridges themselves do not exist on the nail plate. Rather, shallow grooves can develop as a result of the aging or damaged nail matrix, which affects the production of new nail cells in certain areas.

Filing or excessively buffing the nail plate to remove these grooves can lead to undesirable consequences. It not only reduces the overall thickness of the nail plate but also weakens its integrity, making it prone to cracking and peeling. Furthermore, overly thin nail plates do not provide a suitable surface for nail coatings, such as polish, to adhere to effectively.

Instead of resorting to filing, a recommended approach is to use an opaque base coat to fill and cover the grooves. This method helps maintain the thickness and strength of the nail plate while improving its appearance. Additionally, overlaying the nail plate with a thin layer of any type of artificial nail coating can camouflage the grooves and reinforce the nail plate without over-thinning it.

By understanding these alternatives, it becomes clear that there is no need to make the nail plate thinner. It is far more beneficial to employ techniques that cover and conceal the normal grooves that naturally occur along the length of the plate. Ultimately, embracing these approaches will not only enhance the appearance of the client’s nail plates but also promote their long-term health and integrity.

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Question:

Why do my clients cuticles grow thicker during the winter? Are they doing that because of the cold weather?

Answer:

The most misunderstood part of the fingernail is the cuticle. Some complain their cuticles are growing extra thick, but that doesn’t really happen. They are confusing the cuticle with the proximal nail fold. It’s easy to do, even doctors and scientists are confused about this issue. Here’s what’s known and presently understood.

This answer contains recently updated information about nail anatomy that I’ve obtained from leading dermatologists and pathologists.

1. The cuticle is attached directly to the nail plate. If what you are looking at is a thin layer of tissue directly attached to nail plate only; it is the cuticle. The cuticle rides the nail plate and comes from the underside of the living skin and is created by very thin layer of specialized tissue called “eponychium”.

2. The proximal nail fold is the living skin at the base fingernail. Any visible skin permanently attached to the proximal nail fold is not cuticle.

3. If the skin is attached to both the nail plate and the proximal nail fold, it is really just part of the proximal nail fold, and is not the cuticle.

4. When the proximal nail fold is cut or damaged, it will grow thicker to protect itself. This isn’t an overgrowth of the cuticle; it’s a hardening and thickening of the proximal nail fold. This happens for the same reason that the foot develops a thicker callus when the skin is subjected to increased pressure or rubbing.

5. The cuticle will not grow back thicker when removed from the nail plate; nor will it grow thicker during the cold season. The cuticle can’t grow, because it is dead tissue. It is shed from the eponychium and rides the nail plate as it moves toward the free edge. Why? To serve as a seal to prevent infectious organisms from getting under the skin or into the nail matrix area.

6. The cuticle will not bleed when cut, it is dead and has no blood supply, since it is detached from the living skin and attached to the nail plate instead.

7. If the tissue bleeds when cut back too much, this is part of the proximal nail fold and is not the cuticle.

8. If the cuticle and proximal nail fold seem to merge together and become “overgrown”, this is usually caused by damage or injury to the living eponychium, often as a disease condition or some other unknown issue. This type of tissue is pterygium, which is an abnormal growth of skin.

In these cases, when the nail professional trims off this dry, crusty skin this can cause the proximal nail fold to grow back faster to protect itself from this injury. That’s why the best solution is to avoid cutting the skin. Instead, treat hardened tissue with high quality nail oil and repeat this daily. Also, performing weekly hot oil treatments will help a lot. After thirty to forty days, this dry crusty-looking skin will begin to flake off and eventually will disappear to reveal the healthy tissue underneath. Do not cut or remove the hardened layer on the proximal nail fold, it will just make matters worse- just like a dog chasing its own tail!

Understanding Pterygium: Beyond Nail Plate Misconceptions

I’d also like to add this about the term pterygium. Contrary to what some teach, this is not another name for the dead tissue on the nail plate. Pterygium is a medical condition that occurs on different parts of the body, including eyes and fingernails. In general, the term is used to describe any wing-like and triangular-shaped tissue on the neck, eyes, elbow, knees, ankles or fingers. The word comes from the Greek word for wing and refers only to abnormal growths of skin that are stretched into a wing-like shape.

Pterygium commonly occurs on the eyeballs of people exposed to lots of sunlight or wind. This explains why those who surf or fish on the ocean are sometimes affected. It can occur on the nail plate, but is considered an abnormal medical condition often caused by burns, serious injury, damage, disease and possibly allergic reactions. Cuticle tissue is normal and is not an abnormal growth, so it can’t be pterygium.

Embracing Correct Terminology for Nail Anatomy

This term and others are creating confusion in the industry. I know, everyone is confused. But as research continues and new information is learned, slowly the facts are emerging. For clarity’s sake, my recommendation is that all educators and manufacturers only use the word “pterygium” to describe abnormal stretching of the proximal nail fold or the hyponychium. I don’t fault any company that’s confused about this issue, but I would encourage them to research and teach the facts. It’s time to move past the use of incorrect terminology. It’s time for change and all responsible companies should help to lead the way. It’s a new day and we should all be doing our best to always use the correct terminology when describing the natural nail. You have my commitment to continue researching new discoveries and passing that information on to nail professionals.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. Why do my clients’ cuticles grow thicker during the winter? Are they doing that because of the cold weather?

Answer: No, the cuticle does not grow thicker during the winter. The cuticle is actually dead tissue that sheds from the eponychium and rides the nail plate. It cannot grow back thicker. However, the proximal nail fold, which is the living skin at the base of the fingernail, may appear thicker due to the cold weather. When the proximal nail fold is cut or damaged, it thickens to protect itself, similar to how the foot develops calluses under pressure.

2. What is the difference between the cuticle and the proximal nail fold?

Answer: The cuticle is a thin layer of tissue directly attached to the nail plate. It comes from the underside of the living skin and is created by a specialized tissue called “eponychium.” On the other hand, the proximal nail fold is the living skin at the base of the fingernail that is not permanently attached to the nail plate. It is often mistaken for the cuticle but is a separate part of the nail anatomy.

3. Does the cuticle have a blood supply? Will it bleed if cut?

Answer: The cuticle does not have a blood supply since it is detached from the living skin and attached to the nail plate. Therefore, it will not bleed when cut. If bleeding occurs, it is likely from the proximal nail fold, not the cuticle.

4. Can the hardened layer on the proximal nail fold be removed or trimmed?

Answer: It is best to avoid cutting or removing the hardened layer on the proximal nail fold. This hardened tissue, known as pterygium, is an abnormal growth of skin often caused by damage, injury, or disease. Instead, treating it with high-quality nail oil and performing weekly hot oil treatments can help soften and improve its condition over time.

5. What is pterygium and how is it related to the cuticle?

Answer: Pterygium is a medical condition characterized by abnormal growths of wing-like and triangular-shaped tissue. While it can occur on the nail plate, it is not synonymous with the cuticle. Pterygium is usually associated with burns, serious injury, damage, disease, or possibly allergic reactions. Cuticle tissue, on the other hand, is a normal part of the nail and not an abnormal growth.

The post Why do my clients cuticles grow thicker during the winter? appeared first on NailKnowledge.

Typically, the nail plate is soaked in acetone for ten minutes or more which can temporarily remove approximately 2 or 3% (possibly more) of the water content of the nail plate. That’s enough to temporarily alter the shape of the nail plate, but this will not affect the nail plate’s actual structure. I define “structure” as the way in which the nail cells join and make the nail plate.

Understanding the Relationship between Structure and Form

Acetone can’t change the structure at all. 

 The same thing occurs when a sponge changes shape as it dries out, but the sponge’s structure hasn’t changed at all. When water is put back into the sponge, it would revert to its wet shape. If the structure changed, then it would not do so and would instead become permanently deformed.

Even though acetone can NOT deform the structure of the nail plate, it will temporarily remove some of the moisture, especially near the surface of the nail plate. After removing the nail plate from the acetone, the nail plate’s lost moisture will be automatically replaced by moisture from the underlying nail bed and surrounding tissues, as shown in Image 2.

Understanding the Impact of Acetone Soak on Nail Shape and Flexibility

If the shape changes, this will be much more noticeable on thin or highly flexible nail plates and probably not as noticeable on thicker nail plates with less flexibility. Acetone could never completely remove all oil or water, just a small amount. For example, a nail plate that contained 15% water and 4% oil, after soaking in acetone for 30 minutes might now contain 12% water and 3% oil.

All the lost water and oil is mostly removed from the surface and this should certainly be replaced within approximately eight to twelve hours, maybe faster for some nails. Likely any changes in the shape of the nail plate should be reversed in hours, not days.

Understanding the Effects of Acetone on Skin and Safe Usage Tips

Acetone can do the same to the skin; remove some water and oil, mostly from just the surface of the skin. It’s not likely to penetrate deeper in significant quantities, it escapes too quickly by evaporation. This is one of the reasons acetone is the preferred solvent for nail coating removal.

It is safe to use for this application and doesn’t harm the nail plate. The main concern with acetone is that it is highly flammable, so use cautiously to avoid fires. Use this solvent wisely and responsibly!

Debunking the Link between Acetone Soak and Nail Shape.

After analyzing the effects of acetone on the nail plate and skin, it can be concluded that acetone can temporarily alter the shape of the nail plate by removing some of its moisture, but it cannot change the nail plate’s structure.

Acetone can make thin and highly flexible nails more susceptible to shape changes than thicker and less flexible nails. However, any changes in nail shape should be reversed within hours. Acetone can also remove water and oil from the skin, making it a safe solvent for nail coating removal. It is essential to use acetone cautiously, as it is highly flammable.

Therefore, to ensure safe usage, one should follow the below tips:

• Use acetone wisely and responsibly
• Use it in a well-ventilated area
• Avoid exposure to heat, sparks, or flames while using acetone
• Keep it away from children and pets
• Store it in a cool and dry place

Futher Reading

Take a look at this article that discusses the impact of acetone on natural nails:

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Question:

I wonder… Why does the hyponychium seem to grow more when the nails are covered with a coating, like a gel for example?

Answer:

Any artificial coating such as gels or acrylics, when professionally and properly performed, creates very special conditions for the entire nail unit. Firstly, the enhancement works as a strong protective layer. Ιt retains water loss and ensures a high level of moisturization, which in turn leads to improvement of almost all aspects of nail regeneration. Many clients note, for instance, that after the quality service, their nails grow faster, the nail plate gets stronger, etc. It is true for the hyponychium as well. Thus, the protected nails feel better, and they recover faster. 

Secondly, the elongation of the nail work as a lever. When we apply a force to the edge of the nail, the force is transmitted to the hyponychium and apex area. Thus, we get some constant peculiar massage of this zone. That is resulting in better micro circulation and, accordingly, better cell division here. The longer this lever (read: the free edge), the greater the force the hyponychial area experiences. But extremely intensive work of the lever can result in onycholysis with all its unpleasant consequences.

I should add that, basically, onycholysis is also the result of how a lever works due to improper balance in the creation of the artificial enhancement, the wrong architecture of the artificial nail, and the wrong apex placement.

The post Hyponychium growth appeared first on NailKnowledge.

The PNF forms part of an important seal of the nail unit together with the cuticle (shed from the eponychium and made very ‘sticky’ so it sticks to the nail plate below and the PNF above it.) This seal needs to remain intact.

The frame of clear skin that is the distal edge of the PNF can grow wide because it is connected to the cuticle that grows along with the nail plate, so it gets stretched.

What should be a ‘pleasing look’ is the seal intact and a very narrow and neat edge to the PNF. Many choose to create a look where there is no evidence of the seal. This leaves the area clearly open to the invasion of pathogens. This is an unfortunate perception of a “pleasing look” when, in fact, it is damaging.

Both many nail professionals and clients refuse to have any patience in creating a safe “pleasing look”. They want instant results. This can even go to the lengths where there is a wide gap between the damaged PNF and the nail plate. This, without exception, results in swollen and inflamed skin.

Instead, if the clear frame of the PNF is gently lifted from the cuticle and massaged daily with a good nail oil, it will shrink back and not be so obvious. But the seal will remain intact and the skin healthy.

The right oils are the answer to SO many problems with the nail unit! It may not be the instant result that many want but it is the safest. The “pleasing look” has come about due to the “instant gratification” that has grown in popularity. However, all it takes is just a little patience and understanding what is safe and what is harmful. (“Trout pout” for nails anyone?? No!)

The post Can I cut the keratinised proximal nail fold? appeared first on NailKnowledge.

On average yes, but, the definition of average in a nail salon is a bit murky!

A day in the life of a salon after lockdown showed us a larger deviation in nail plate growth than we expected after we were forced to go into lockdown for 11 weeks.

On the left: Client is 30 years old with this set applied on the 4th of March 2020 and the photo shows her on the 21st of May 2020 after we could return to work – its about 78 days or 11 weeks

On the right: Client is 60 years old with this set applied on the 7th of March 2020 and this photo taken on the 21st of May 2020 – its about 75 days or almost 11 weeks

Their nail plates have grown at a very different rate even though both have the same product and the same nail tech did the work. Neither have any medical conditions that may affect the growth of the nail plate – the only difference is 30 years in age.

There are so many factors to be taken into account.

How old is your client?

The older we become the slower our nail plate cells are made – also we may have some problems with our blood circulation, don’t forget our matrix gets its nutrients from our blood supply if the nutrients are reduced then so is the nail plate cell production

Is she pregnant?

When we are pregnant, we are full of growth hormones and our blood volume is greater, both things make us produce more nail plate cells faster so our nails grow quicker than normal

Does she have any medical conditions that may affect the growth of the nail?

• Psoriasis
• Alopecia
• Lichen planus

All of these conditions can affect the nail bed tissue, the bed epithelium or the nail matrix and this in turn affects the nail plate growth.

All of these things can be a factor – smart is to use the 1mm a week as rule of thumb but make notes and measure your client’s regrowth when he/she comes back into the salon, then you know how fast or slow their nails grow, which product is more suited to your client’s nail plates, and when he/she needs to return for a rebalance.

Nail unit maintenance with oil and or lotion may have a positive affect by maintaining the elasticity in the bed epithelium ensuring nail plate movement is not slowed down by dryness.

The post Do all nail plates grow 1mm a week? appeared first on NailKnowledge.

Please see our full article on the Nail Plate and the Nail Bed where we provide further details on both areas.

The post What is the difference between the nail bed and the nail plate? appeared first on NailKnowledge.

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